We have always taken the logical approach to this hobby called "ponding". Actually, we are some real lazy people, kind of cheap and believe that you should enjoy your pond, while not constantly fighting that old "green water" problem and be able to maintain a pond without a lot of effort and additives, especially that effort word as that means work, which is at the top of bad 4 letter words list.

The first update is this and it is going to spark a bunch of controversy.

DO NOT EVER CLEAN THIS FILTER! Wow, did we really say ever = never = not at all = let it alone, etc. WE SURE DID. If you get a good balance going, you should never have to clean your filter.  Here is the story.... Skippy's Beautiful Ponds & Gardens is a small mom and pop operation in Taylor, Michigan. We got into ponding when someone said "hey this looks like a nice place for a pond" and someone else ran for a shovel. That's all we knew about ponds, the rest is history, basically we made all the mistakes and therefore now call ourselves experts. Right, but anyway here is the story we want to tell.

After a bunch of mistakes and through trial and mostly error we came up with this design and all seemed to go well, i.e.: clean and clear water. That was what we wanted so we just let well enough alone. A season went by and we got busy or in truth ignored the filter, therefore did not clean it. One season ran into the next and after 7 years of not so much as touching the filter we maintained clean and clear water. Then one day some knucklehead said anybody clean that there filter contraption lately? Real brainer here... when everything was going just fine we decide to break the Cardinal Rule "If it is not broke do not fix it." Off we go... The filter media was a nasty, slimly, gunky, yuky... get the picture?  (click here for the best media to use)  But what was happening is that the filter was doing exactly what it was designed to do. That being (short version) the media was trapping the organic matter, holding it long enough for the beneficial bacteria (click here for the best bacteria to use) to decompose it and then releasing it to begin the biological process all over again. 4 Keys to making this filter work and it really does work... the dirtier the better!

DESIGN

MEDIA

BACTERIA

TIME

Click On Each OF The Keys Above For Details oops, except for DESIGN as that is what we are about to do and that just takes you right back here anyway, so I guess I should shut-up and get on with it, etc and so on.

Building A Bio-Logical Filter for your Pond

As stated elsewhere, we believe the only way to go is with an out of the pond filtration system. This is a true Bio-Logical filter, therefore all those fancy UV's and other such stuff are useless. Actually using a UV with a biological filter is an oxymoron. The UV kills bacteria along with the algae spores and bacterium are one of the 4 keys to make this biological process happen. For more explanation on why this type of filter works, see FM Cure for Green Water elsewhere on this site.

Note: You will need some patience. Not now, but when you get the filter up and running. Under ideal circumstances... good weather, right bacteria, etc. Mother Nature takes her time. It may take from 4 to 8 weeks before the first cycle happens. Green to Clear.  Do not be surprised if it cycles several times, but wait it out, don't clean, relax and it will happen for you. Here are a few things that will hinder progress... Using any of the following: Chlorine in the water or any other additive that kills bacteria, cleaning it, pond decorated with either limestone or sandstone. This type of mineral matter is soft and erodes easily. The suspended particles will attract algae and/or your water will always be murky. Hint: Grand Canyon and the mighty muddy Colorado River. This is a good time to start helping your pond to balance. Along with regular doses of beneficial bacteria, you should be adding plants.

So lets build one:

Parts list:

• A Rubbermaid stock tank. -- Old Style -- New Style. (100 gallon size so far)
  They come in sizes 70gals, 100gals, 150gals, and 300gals. (Also available is a 50gal size but we find it too shallow to be used as a filter.) Which one is best for you? Of course the size you will need is dependant on the size of your pond. The bigger the pond the bigger the filter you will need. Makes sense, but, how about a rule of thumb? Let us say this first, these filters really work. We have a few thousand in use at this point and have not had a single failure. That is, every one we have put in is working as expected. Actually, using the S.A.G. approach (Smart As_ Guess) we think the following will work:
• Updated as we have found these filters to work better than even we expected...
  • 70 gal size filter at least to a 2000 gallon pond size
  • 100 gal size filter at least to a 3000 gallon pond size
  • 150 gal size filter at least to a 4500 gallon pond size
  • If you need a larger filtration system, we now suggest that you build two 150 gallon size filters.
  • Worst case: If you built a filter so small that it did not work for your pond, you could just build another and connect it to the first one and double the capacity of the filtration process. Or, add another in a different area of your pond, doubling the filtering capacity and  adding more circulation.

Okay, back to the parts list.

• 1 - length of 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe (1 inch PVC pipe for the Mini-Me Filter).
• 1 - PVC tee.
• 3 - PVC elbows.
• 1 - 1 1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch threaded nipple reducer (For the Mini-Me, use an appropriate fitting to attach the hose coming from the pump).
• 1 - 4 inch closet flange (For the MiniMe, use a 2 inch floor shower drain).
• 1 - plastic egg crate style overhead 2x4 light grate (or something similar) we get a lot of emails as to where to find this item. It is in the ceiling tile section of any Home Depot or similar home improvement store. It is nothing more than a ceiling light grate panel.
• 4 - 1/4 inch by 1 1/2 inch bolt, nut and washer combinations (bolts not needed for the Mini-Me Filter).
• Filter medium.
  Note: after you build the filter you also are going to need some beneficial bacteria. We can sell you that too! See how good I am at slipping in those sales pitches?

The steps to building the filter.

• The stock tank comes with a built in drain and plug. Decide if you want this drain on the front or rear of your filter. We have found that 99% of the time it is best to have this drain in the back of the filter. Note no cleaning, so this drain plug will rarely be used, so seal it with Teflon tape. Caution, do not over tighten as you can easily break the bulkhead fitting. Hand tightened is usually enough and check for a leak by filling the tank above the fitting before you haul it out to your pond and place a ton of rocks around it.
• On the top flat face of the tank (using the closet flange as a template) draw a circle. Cut out this hole. Again using the closet flange as a template drill out the mounting holes. Mount the closet flange on the outside of the tank. Also do not forget to silicone the flat area on the flange before installing to insure it is sealed. See pictures.
• If you intend to hide your Skippy Filter behind a waterfall, you'll need to put some liner material (EPDM) over the overflow flange to prevent water from getting behind the rocks and running out on the ground. Here are some pictures to help you with that....
• Cut the PVC pipe so that it will fit the bottom of the tub with the tee and elbows attached. You want the bottom elbows to face in different directions so the swirl effect takes place. Cut the other length of PVC to extend upward from the tee. On the top of this pipe put another PVC elbow. Inside the top elbow place the 1½ to 1¼ treaded nipple reducer. TIPS: A. The reason we use a reducer is the fact that most sump pump hose kits come with a nipple that will screw right into this arrangement. B. Do not use cement to connect the inside PVC piping, elbows etc.. They most often are tight enough as is and it makes it easier if you want to change the direction of the top elbow in relationship to the incoming hose. If you cement the top elbow before you do step 3 you will find it difficult to put down the grate. AND think about cleaning time. C. You might be tempted to connect another length of PVC pipe to the top elbow and bring this hose connection out past the lip of the tub. Can be done, but if you do make sure the hose connection is watertight. We think it best to keep the hose connection over the tub in case of drips. See pictures.
• Cut the grate to fit inside the tank(Small tank or Large tank) and to rest on the bottom ridge. If using a larger tank and want extra bracing under the grill, try this. If you cut it too small do not panic. The purpose of this grate is to create a space between the bottom of the tank and the filter medium to act as a type of sludge pit. If you cut the grate too small just put a couple pieces of 2x4 in the bottom as risers. Cut a center hole in the grate for the up turned PVC pipe to fit through. When done put the connected PVC pipe in the tank and put the grate down.
• On top of the grate lay in the filter media. The amount of media is determined by the size of the tank. It should be tossed in loosely,  but still come up to, or just below the lip of the overflow. You could put another grate on top of the filter media, but we have found that it really is not necessary. See pictures. The best filter media we have found is simply cut up commercial floor scrubber pads. This fibrous material provides a generous surface area to trap debris, algae etc. and creates a wonderful habitat for the beneficial bacteria to live and flourish. Nothing else is as good and the material will last for years. We have tried all the other things and have found them all to fail. Lava rocks because they clog quickly and are good for about 1/2 of a season even if you clean them, (which by the way kills off the bacteria colony). Brushes do not hold or trap nearly as much. Bio-balls are a joke along with furnace filters, foam rubber, carpet padding, sponges etc. Since the bio-filter is so important we recommend you use the best. Sometimes this material is difficult to find in bulk at a reasonable price so if you want you can order it from us. This filter media can be found and ordered at "Stuff We Sell at Skippys".
• Put on the top elbow and align with the direction you want your hose to come from the pond. Put in the 1½ to 1¼ treaded reducer and screw in the 1¼ nipple. Attach your tubing or hose from here to your pump and away you go.  Tip: Have your pump located in the pond as far away from the filter as possible to insure good circulation. ALSO do not put your pump on the very bottom of the pond. Reason? Koi and even goldfish get real mad if for some reason the water gets completely drained from the pond.

Skippy’s tips:

That's pretty much it. With this type of construction you do have many options. Here are just a few:

• The closet flange is not the only way to go. You could use 2 2" flanges and with a little pre-thought and PVC fittings, change the direction of the flow of the water to have 2 separate waterfalls. Or, Have your filter some distance from the pond and pipe the return to it. Use your imagination and PVC; it is a great combination.
• Plants are important in your pond and any plant you add is beneficial. They work along with your filter and bacteria. The top of the filter is a great place for water hyacinth and other plants also.  Just keep an eye on them. If they get too big or you decide you don't like them, just yank them out and put them elsewhere in your pond.  See Picture 1. See Picture 2. See Picture 3. See Picture 4.
• You can hide the filter with slate and it makes a wonderful waterfall. Make sure you put a liner under your waterfall! Why? Does the name Grand Canyon give you a clue?
• Remember PVC is a cheap, great product; you can plumb this filter anyway you like.
• After you get the filter up and running, start doing regular doses of  beneficial bacteria. That is the way it works best. Click here to see information on the Bacteria that we recommend.
• Give this filter a little time to work. The biological process takes time, but it worth the wait.
• Do not clean this type of filter! Cleaning means the process has to start over. We have a 150 gal size on a 3200 gallon pond and believe it or not, our pond stays clear all year round. This is the main reason we like this type of filter after all we didn’t get as fat as we are because we overworked ourselves.

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